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THERE WAS A TINY MOMENT LAST THURSDAY THAT EPITOMIZED JUST HOW my life has felt since my last pre-surf trip post. The sun was out at San Onofre. Not a cloud in the sky. The surf was small, but plenty fun. The water was cool and refreshing. Not too cold, not too warm. I'd just caught a sweet chest high wave and rode it all the way to the shoreline, so I had...
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